Yes, David is Naked

When I travel, I often collect magnets from various places. Monet’s Giverny, La Foce Gardens, the Eiffel Tower - all reside on my refrigerator, a constant reminder of wonderful trips.   

One of the magnets, which I brought home from an early trip to Florence, is of the David.

Years ago, I noticed my then 8-year-old grandson staring at it.  “Nana”, he asked, “why do you have a naked man on your fridge?”.   That was a great opportunity to begin a conversation about classical art, the Italian renaissance, a sculptor’s skill in recreating the human body, and the nude as an art form.  My grandson was not buying any of it.  “Well’, he countered, “I just think it’s inappropriate”.   All I could do was laugh.   

On a later trip I purchased a matching game for my even younger grandkids.  Each card had a photo of a famous Tuscan landmark or piece of art.  Included were, I think you can guess this, a photo of the David. Another card had a photo of Morgante the Dwarf, often known as the “Fat Man on the Turtle”, from the Boboli Gardens. Morgante is, of course, naked. This matching game has been a favorite of my grandkids for years.  And yes, the two nudes get lots of giggles, but the kids have learned a lot about art and Tuscany in their search to be the first one to uncover “the naked guy”.  All 4 grandkids have survived the nudity just fine. 

 My grandson’s opinion, as an 8-year-old, was understandable.  But I expect a more sophisticated and open-minded attitude from adults.  I am still scratching my head over the outrage of some parents in Florida over photos of the David used in a 6th grade art class.  Male nudes have been present in classic sculpture since at least the time of the Greeks.  Most people understand the artistic value and the role of important art pieces in education.  And most understand the difference between art and pornography.  But, a few parents in that school did not and wielded an inordinate amount of influence, leading to the principal resigning.

The much discussed and analyzed hand of David.

David during the fig leaf years (public domain photo)

Granted, Floridians are not the only ones to be a bit bothered by David’s nudity.  Some long-ago residents of Florence also objected, and after the statue’s completion Michelangelo was asked to cover the genitals with leaves.  Those were later removed, restoring the statue to Michelangelo’s original vision. It has remained thus ever since.  A replica of the David in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London was covered in a fig leaf whenever Queen Victoria visited.  Apparently, the Queen was outraged.  One wonders if Albert was asked to sport a fig leaf when visiting the Queen’s chamber.

 Still, I was saddened to see a principal lose her job over the inclusion of the biblical David in a class.  But I was delighted when the city of Florence brought that school principal to Florence to see the statue in person. How great was that?

This reproduction stands in the Piazza della Signoria in Florence, where the original statue was displayed before being moved to the Accademia Gallery.

I am happy to say that as my grandson has grown so has his appreciation for this magnificent work of art. When he visited me in Italy for the first time several years ago, along with his sister and their mother (my daughter), I took them all to Florence to the Academia Gallery where the David commands an entire room. 

We walked around him, noting the unique size of his…. hands. We marveled at the muscles in his legs and his 6-pack abs. In the end both of my grandkids found that the David was so amazing that they hardly noticed he was naked! 

David is, of course, not the only naked statue in Florence.  There are many nudes, partial nudes, and exposed breasts in Italian sculpture.  Many of the fountains in Italy are anchored by nudes, including the Fountain of Neptune in Florence (below).

Fountain of Neptune, Florence

And not all the nudes are male. There are some beautiful female nudes to be found. Here are a few of my favorites from the Accademia Gallery in Florence, the Neptune Fountain in Bologna, and a modern piece in the Museo del Bozzetti in Pietrasanta. I hope you find all of these sculptures as beautiful as I do.

A Rhine River Cruise with Viking

There are castles to be seen when cruising the Middle Rhine Valley.

Say the word “cruise” and you are sure to get a reaction.  Some people love cruises and plan most of their vacations around an ocean or a river voyage.  Others swear they aren’t “cruise people” and would never book one. I fall somewhere in between.  I enjoy independent travel that immerses me in the culture of a place and allows me to do my own thing at my own pace.  Most of my trips will be independent ones. Planes, trains, and cars usually get me where I want to go.

Still, it can be fun to explore some areas on a tour, especially places where one doesn’t speak the language or those that don’t draw us in for a longer stay. And spending a few days on the water can be a relaxing way to vacation.

I am not a fan of those huge ocean-going ships, both for environmental reasons and because the idea of a floating city with thousands of people doesn’t appeal to me. I don’t need casinos, pools, or glitzy shows when I travel either. As for evening gowns and formal nights - forget about it! Smaller ships offering well curated but casual experiences and meaningful cultural insights are more my style.  I have found that river cruises provide just the right balance. And I have really enjoyed sailing with Viking.

Quaint villages, green landscapes, and calm waters along the Rhine.

Cocktails in the Viking Baldur lounge - a great way to catch up with friends old and new.

The Viking longships, which cruise the European rivers, are relatively small. They carry just under 200 passengers. This allows the ships to dock close to city centers and right alongside small villages. Getting on and off the boats is a snap and allows for either joining a guided walk or for independent exploration in the towns along the river.

A river cruise is also a great way to travel with a group of friends. The choices of activities allow each group member to select different excursions and the layout of the Viking longships provides plenty of space to cozy up with a book or a drink or a deck chair. But then there is plenty of opportunity to spend relaxed time together on board - at meals, in the lounge, over a card game, or socializing in one of the outdoor spaces.   

My recent cruise with Viking, along the Rhine River, gave me the chance to spend a week with friends from New Mexico. We met up in Amsterdam and spent time catching up and sharing a week of fun explorations as we sailed from Amsterdam to Basel along the Rhine river.

Sunset along the Rhine as seen from the Viking Baldur during an evening of sailing.

One of the many castles in the Middle Rhine Valley

 Another advantage – no packing and unpacking!  My roommate and I settled into our cabin on day 1 and visited 4 countries in 8 days without ever having to pack and unpack again.  And though that may sound like a lot of places in a short time frame, the time spent sailing from one location to the next was either during meals on board, in the evenings during social hours in the lounge, throughout the night, or on days when the passing scenery was so spectacular that watching from a relatively slow-moving boat was wonderful. 

Each day is different on a river cruise. There are new cities to explore, led by knowledgeable local guides.  Stops includes an introductory walking tour followed by free time to explore on your own.  There are slower paced groups for those who might want a more relaxed pace with less standing and more opportunities to sit awhile. All of the general walks are included in the cost of a Viking cruise along with some optional, reasonable priced, excursions as well.

Rudesheimer coffee served in traditional cups was an afternoon treat after an on-board demonstration of how to make it.

On-board activities link to the places visited and include history and cultural information about the various regions, demonstrations of local crafts or cooking, and port talks which highlight the interesting things to see in each town. 

On the Rhine cruise we made Rudesheimer coffee on the day we stopped near that city (yum).

The chefs also gave a cooking demonstration, showing us how to make an authentic French Flammkuchen, a type of flat bread with toppings (but don’t call it pizza!) as part of our stop in Strasbourg.  The chefs were assisted by a volunteer passenger and everyone received a copy of the recipe to take home. The demonstrations was followed by a tasting - delicious!

Pretzels and beer kicked off a night of German themed dishes.

The meals also reflect the food of the regions we visited.  German night was a highlight on this voyage.  No worries though – if the local cuisine doesn’t appeal there are always some standard options available including salmon, steak or chicken. There are always vegetarian choices as well. Wine and beer are included at both lunch and dinner.

I enjoyed tasting the local delicacies – even raw herring at breakfast.  That was part of the fun as were the daily descriptions of dinners given by the head chef.  Good food, from sumptuous breakfasts complete with a made-to-order omelet bar, to tasty lunches and beautifully presented dinners, added to the enjoyment. Getting to know other passengers at meals was an added bonus. Our cruise companions were an interesting and well-traveled group.

Oh - and did I mention deserts? Servings were modest enough to encourage even the most calorie conscious to indulge!

 The Viking longships offer a range of cabins – from small cabins at the water line, to larger cabins with balconies, and a few large suites.   Of course, there is no reason to spend a lot of time in one’s cabin.  On board is a library, a bar / lounge, an outdoor terrace at the front of the boat, and an open upper deck. The upper deck has lounge chairs, a walking track, a small putting green, an herb garden and fantastic views.

A view from my stateroom balcony, near Cologne.

A few general things to keep in mind when planning a river cruise. First, pack light.  There are no formal nights.  Days are quite casual and there is no pressure to wear a different outfit every day - mix and match is the way to go.  A few scarves work wonders to dress up or modify an outfit.  Men don’t need ties or jackets.  Dinner dress is “nice, casual”.   Slacks and shirts or sweaters work for cooler season cruises along with rain gear.  Capris, slacks, sundresses, lightweight shirts in summer. Walking shorts are ok for excursions but discouraged in the dining room.  As for shoes – comfortable walking shoes are a must, leave those heels at home!

 If going all carry-on on an overseas flight works for you then that’s ideal.  If not, then a small carry-on with a change of clothes and anything essential is a must.  It never fails that on any cruise there are passengers whose bags are delayed, sometimes by several days.  This is an airline issue, not a cruise company issue.  But without at least one change of clothes, essential medications, and toiletries, a trip can be ruined. Placing an Air Tag device in checked bags is helpful for locating lost luggage.

Amsterdam, where the Rhine River Cruise began. This part of town was within walking distance of the ship dock.

It is best to arrive in the departure city at least one day, preferable two, ahead of a cruise. Between flight delays, European strikes, and cancelled flights, arriving a couple of days early is good insurance that you won’t miss a day or two of a cruise.  The ship does not wait for late arriving passengers! Plus, those departure cities are fun to explore. The two days we spent in Amsterdam before my recent cruise was a great way to begin the trip. 

While the ship itself is a wonderful part of the river cruise experience, the real stars of the voyage are the cities along the way.  Over the coming weeks I will post more about each of the cities we visited. Lots of photos to come !

Note:  I am not affiliated with Viking Cruises in any way and was simply a paying passenger on this cruise.

Rainy Day Risotto

A week or so ago we had a terrific rainstorm in Lucca. I got caught in it and, despite my big purple umbrella, came home soaking wet. I spent the rest of the afternoon sitting near my window, listening to rain fall and watching colorful umbrellas pass by. 

After a week of warm spring weather, that cold and rainy day felt as if we’d stepped back into March.  Rainy weather is perfect for staying inside, reading, and sipping a coffee.  I had a good book and my Moka pot was fired up so no complaints about the weather from me!

It was also perfect weather for my favorite Italian comfort food – risotto.  Luckily, I happened to have some great risotto ingredients in my fridge – a leek and some mushrooms.  I also always have some Arborio rice on hand, so there was no need to venture out again into the storm in order to make dinner.

Simple ingredients, but fabulous flavor!

I didn’t have a recipe for this risotto, so I just improvised as I went along.  The results were delicious and just the perfect meal for a wet and chilly evening. I am glad I made notes as I cooked, because this is a risotto I will definitely make again. Here’s the recipe:

  Mushroom and Leek Risotto (serves 2)

 ¾ cup risotto rice  (Carnaroli or Arborio)

1 and ½ oz dry white wine

2 tsp extra virgin olive oil

2 c. hot vegetable broth

2 and ½ tablespoons butter, divided

 1 medium leek, (about 1 cup sliced)

4-5 oz mushrooms , sliced fairly thin.

Bring vegetable broth to a simmer while prepping the other ingredients.  Is homemade broth  best?  Of course, but let’s be real –  a good quality store bought vegetable broth works just fine and saves a lot of time and effort.  Just be sure it isn’t too salty!

Cut the white and light green part of a leek in half lengthwise and then slice each half thinly across.   Sauté the leeks in ½ tablespoon of butter until soft.  Set aside for now.

 In medium sized heavy bottom pot, heat the olive oil and add the rice.  Toss to coat rice with oil and cook gently for ~ 2 minutes.

Next, add the wine and allow it to evaporate quickly.   This is where it starts to smell wonderful!

Once the wine evaporates, add ½ c. of the hot broth and all of the cooked leeks.  Stir well. Reduce the flame to low and stir frequently while the broth is slowly absorbed.  

 Continue adding broth in about ¼ cup increments, stirring while the rice absorbs each addition.  Always allow the broth to be absorbed before adding the next amount. Keep stirring frequently. 

 Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of butter in a large frying pan, add the mushrooms, and cook over a medium-high flame, stirring as needed to prevent sticking.  The goal is to brown the mushrooms quickly and to hold the juices in rather than allow the mushrooms to simmer in their pooled juices.  When finished they should be browned, dry, but not crispy.  Add a pinch of salt and about 5 grinds of black pepper.  Set aside for now.

 With the last ¼ cup of broth, add ¾ of the mushrooms.  Keep stirring while the last of the broth is absorbed.  Taste (cook’s benefit!) and add salt if needed.  Risotto should look creamy but not soupy or gummy.  When done, add 1 tablespoon of butter.  Stir and serve immediately.  Top each serving with a few of the reserved mushrooms.

This recipe makes a small batch of risotto, enough for two people.  It can easily be doubled.

Note that there is no cheese in this risotto.  Adding cheese during cooking tends to result in a gummy rather than creamy dish.   You can always add a bit of parmesan at the table but I think this risotto is best without any cheese at all.  Just let that mushroom flavor shine! 

A Quiet Monday Morning in Lucca

A crowded Piazza Anfiteatro during the Santa Zita celebration.

Lucca’s tourist season begins in earnest as soon as April arrives.  Between a host of holidays, a major music festival, and the arrival of gorgeous spring weather, the last few weekends have seen this small city bursting with activity and people.  

 This year it also seems as if the big tour groups, many of them coming from cruise ships docked in Livorno, have arrived early and in bigger numbers than ever.  The tour groups come from all over.  I’ve heard guides speaking in Italian, German, English, and French.  I am happy to see visitors introduced to Lucca, but …. and this is a big but … the small streets and alleyways of Lucca were not made for so many large groups. 

The smaller groups accompanied by private local groups move through town with ease (and are an ideal way to see Lucca), but the really big groups tend to obstruct traffic, clog the streets, and make moving through town quite difficult for locals. 

How I wish the large groups would be advised to keep to one side of the street to allow room for people to pass!  If I had a euro for every time I say “permesso” as I try to get through a large group, well, my rent would be paid for the next 3 months.   Do I sound grumpy?  Well, yes, I guess I am a bit.  After a quiet winter and early spring, the sudden arrival of crowds feels a bit overwhelming.

 The good news is that Monday mornings bring a bit of relief.  Last Monday I was out early to run some errands - a trip to the lavanderia (laundry) to pick up my linens, to the Ortofrutta (fruit and vegetable market) for some vegetables, and to the little shop that sells all kinds of electric lights and appliances to get a replacement light bulb for my kitchen.  I avoided doing these errands over the weekend, but a Monday morning seemed like the right time.  The quiet streets were just perfect for being out and about. 

Early on a Monday morning is the perfect time to go to the Ortofrutta. Look at those gorgeous fruits and veggies!

 Even the main piazzas were nearly empty and the streets around my apartment were quiet too. I encountered just a few locals going about their daily tasks. Shopkeepers were opening up and delivery trucks were bringing supplies to shops and restaurants. Birds sang and their songs were not lost in the hubbub of a busy weekend.

 Mild temperatures, a soft breeze, and uncrowded streets made for a perfect morning of wandering through town and noticing all the wonderful things about spring in Lucca.  Green trees, pretty flowers in pots and on balconies, the old brick of medieval buildings, pretty doors and windows, hidden corners, and the sounds of the city waking up and coming to life. 

Even the street leading to the Torre Guinigi was nearly empty on this Monday morning.

 Around town the warm weather means that windows are open and the sounds of daily life pour out.  A baby crying.  Someone singing.  A radio on.  The sound of a brass horn coming from the music school near my apartment.  The musical sound of Italian chatter drifting out to the street.  These are some of the things I love most about life in Italy.

 The summer crowds, along with the heat and humidity of an Italian summer will soon be here. Those are some of the reasons I will soon head to New Mexico for much of the summer.  There I also have the bonus of a good long visit with my family – including my eldest grandson who will graduate from high school next week (does that ever make me feel old!).   But come August I will be glad to get back to Lucca, so glad that even the crowds won’t make me grumpy.

A few more photos of Lucca on a quiet Monday morning -

Springtime Music in Lucca

Music is an integral part of life in Lucca.   The musical heritage here is rich and spans centuries.  Buskers frequently entertain passersby with everything from classic Italian songs on an accordion to street-side opera or folk music under an ancient loggia.  

Local musicians perform at cafes and bars, up on the walls, and in the piazzas.  It’s hard to beat a spring evening spent sipping a spritz while listening to music in a medieval square.

 Crowds flock to Lucca each summer for Lucca Summer Fest – a contemporary music festival with a wide variety of Italian and international performers. 

This year Norah Jones, Bob Dylan, Kiss, Pat Methany, and Lil Nas X are among the scheduled acts (quite a diverse group!).  Several years back, the Rolling Stones headlined, performing on the green space just outside Lucca’s ancient walls.  That was fun!

But my favorite musical events in Lucca involve classical composers, some of whom were born here. 

Generations of the Puccini family called Lucca home, including 4 generations of sacred music composers, all of whom served as Maestro di Cappella (choir master) at the Cathedral of San Martino. 

Puccini statue in Piazza Cittadella, Lucca. His childhood home is in the background.

The 5th generation saw the Puccini we all know best - Giacomo, born in Lucca in 1858 – shift the family musical focus to opera.

His family home is now a museum. A large bronze statue of “il Maestro”, cigarette in hand and looking rather rakish, sits in Piazza Cittadella near the museum shop. 

Puccini is revered here, so much so that a selection of his arias are performed every evening in the church of San Giovanni. 

Statue of Luigi Boccherini in Lucca

Puccini was not the only famous composer to come from Lucca.  Luigi Boccherini was born here in 1743.  He was a cellist and an early composer of music for string quartets. 

Today, the Boccherini Institute is a place where young musicians train and perform.  Just a few steps from my apartment, the sounds of musical practice coming from the building grace my morning walk most days. 

Perhaps not as well known outside of Italy as Puccini, his cello concertos are incredibly beautiful.  When I want to relax, Boccherini is on my playlist.

To celebrate its classical musical heritage, each spring the city hosts the Lucca Classica Music Festival. 

During the event, musical performances are held throughout the historic center of town – in gardens, underneath the ancient walls, in churches, theaters, and piazzas. 

Performers come from around the world and include choruses, string quartets, orchestras, youth groups, guitarists and even brass bands!

The works of Puccini and Boccherini are well represented during the festival, along with other opera and classical music composers, jazz works, world music, and some distinctly modern pieces. 

 It’s impossible to attend all the performances and difficult to choose among them.  During this year’s festival, when I found a performance that promised Latin music in the spectacular setting of the Garden of Palazzo Pfanner, I knew I had to attend. 

The garden at Palazzo Pfanner - a wonderful, casual setting for a classical music performance during the Lucca Classical Music Festival..

The music was by Quartetto Lunae, a string quartet playing in magical harmony.  They played pieces from Cuba, Mexico, and South America, everything from a Piazzolla tango to Besame Mucho and La Bamba.  Listening to the beautiful notes, surrounded by quiet birdsong and garden roses, was incredibly moving.

Quartetto Lunae

 A fun counterpoint was the performance by the Filarmonica Giacomo Puccini di Nozzano.  This large brass band assembled in Palazzo Napoleone, Lucca’s largest piazza.  From there they marched across town, stopping in a series of piazzas to play for the gathered crowds.  Add in some baton twirlers and it was quite a lively event!

 This year’s Lucca Classica ended on May 1st.   I can hardly wait to see what next year’s festival brings!

This concert goer found the perfect seat - watching the concert from inside the limonaia at Palazzo Pfanner!