Celebrating the Carabinieri

One of my favorite things about living in Lucca is that so often one just stumbles across an interesting celebration, festival, performance, or activity.  The big events are publicized in advance, but often the smaller ones are not and so coming across one is always a pleasant surprise.

Ceremonial uniform with plumed hat (Liberation Day, April 2024).

 One day earlier this month (June 2024) as I was out and about running errands, I came across a big gathering in Piazza Napoleone, Lucca’s largest piazza.  There were speakers and flowers, a red carpet, and lots of Carabinieri in dress uniforms.  Curious, I had to find out what the event was all about.  What I discovered is that June 5th is the Giornata Nationale dell’Arma del Carabinieri (National Carabinieri Day).  The event marks the day the Medaglio d’Oro (Gold Medal for military valor) was awarded to the Carabinieri for service in World War I.

The carabinieri have a special function in Italian policing.  They function both as a civil police force, catching criminals, quelling riots, performing rescues, and maintaining public safety.  But they are also military police and so function as a branch of the armed services too. Serious business being a member of the carabinieri!

Historical image of a long-ago Carabinieri

The Carabinieri have been around for a long time, ever since their formation by King Vittorio Emanuele I in 1814.  Their name comes from the weapon they carried, the carbine. They also carry some pretty impressive swords.

There have long been strict regulations for how the force dressed. No doubt they have always cut a dashing figure. But I’ll bet those early uniforms were far less comfortable than the modern ones.

Photo adapted from official Italian Presidential Press site

Today, the Italian Carabinieri are considered to be among the best dressed police force in the world (just think about how many Facebook photos of attractive uniformed carabinieri are posted).

After all, Georgio Armani had a hand in designing the modern uniforms.  The mix of the Italian “bella figura” Armani style along with the distinguished military presence is a combination that is pretty hard to beat!

On June 5th the celebration included not only uniformed Carabinieri but uniformed soldiers and a collection of vehicles used in police and military work over the years. The display included bicycles (complete with rifle mounts) and several vintage motorcycles.  The cars were much more sophisticated - included were an elegant Lancia and a Balilla Spider from the 1930’s along with a progression of more modern, but much less elegant, service vehicles. 

Stumbling across this celebration was unexpected and provided a chance to learn some interesting facts about the carabinieri.  All on a beautiful spring day in Lucca.

Welcome Back Bar del Sole

Lucca’s centro storico is small, completely encircled by Renaissance era walls.  When I first arrived as a visitor, long before I moved here, I thought of the center as one wonderful neighborhood.  No place within the walls was more than a short walk away.  Compared to the sprawl of Albuquerque, that certainly made Lucca feel like a single neighborhood.

 But as I spent more time here, I realized that, even though the walls that encircle the historic center are only about 2.5 miles around, Lucca is much more than a single neighborhood. In fact, there are several small neighborhoods contained within the walls, each with its own unique character.  A move of a few blocks in any direction is likely to mean a change in the local bar, butcher, greengrocer, and pharmacy.  The closure of any one of these neighborhood places has a big impact on local residents.

The original Bar del Sole, on the perimeter of the Old Mercato, a neighborhood institution in this part of Lucca

Take for example the neighborhood around Via Mordini, very near to the Old Mercato building in Piazza del Carmine. There have been just a few shops operating on the perimeter of the building, several of which opened into the big empty space of the former Mercato. For many years the Mercato building existed in restoration limbo. These shops, which included a bar, a butcher, a coffee & chocolate shop, and two greengrocers, were very important neighborhood places.

The Bar del Sole, which for nearly two decades has anchored the corner of the Old Mercato building, was the bar in this neighborhood - the one where you were likely to run into the same patrons on a regular basis, where you knew the owners, Monica and Ernesto, and they knew you too.  A place that always felt comfortable and welcoming.  A great place for a morning coffee, to sit and read the newspaper, to talk with neighbors.  Just as good in the afternoons too for a spritz or glass of wine.

Ernesto (on the left) at the reopening of Bar del Sole. You might just recognize the guy on the right too - that’s Jim Corcoran, one of the organizers of English Mondays. A big thanks to Ilene Blessing Modica for this photo.

The bar also played host for a long time to English Mondays, a social group for Italians wanting to practice English and for English speaking ex-pats. The location of Bar del Sole, opening into the large unrestored Mercato, was perfect for this large group.

But, in a very controversial turn of events, when restoration began on the Old Mercato building most of the existing businesses were forced to relocate. There was very little notice given nor help in finding new places to do business.  Imagine the uproar this caused in the neighborhood.  Imagine the terrible impact on the businesses and the people whose livelihood was threatened. The period of negotiation, legal action, reprieve, and then final closure of the bar was prolonged and stressful.  Earlier this spring the bar closed for good at the Old Mercato location. 

 But – good news – Bar del Sole has found a new location! The new space is just down the street at Via Mordini 13, a few steps away from the old location. 

Work in Progress on the new location for Bar del Sole!

And on June 15th they welcomed the neighbors back with a grand reopening celebration.  The number of people who turned out for the reopening, filling the bar and spilling out to the street, demonstrated how important the bar is to the neighborhood and how much the community supports Monica and Ernesto. 

The Prosecco flowed at the reopening celebration for Bar del Sole

The new location is bright and cheerful, as were the smiles on the faces of the owners and staff.  After the difficulties of the past year, and months of not knowing how (or if) they would be able to reopen, what a joy it was to celebrate with them.

Whether you are living in Lucca or just here for a visit, I hope you will stop in for a coffee or an aperitivo to support Monica and Ernesto in their new location. 

We are all so glad to welcome them back!

Brenta Canal Part Two: The Villa Pisani

The Villas along the Brenta Canal were built between the 16th and 18th century.  Some were built for agriculture and commerce but many as summer getaways for rich and powerful Venetians.  They lined the canal between Venice and the city of Padova, forming an extension of Venice that became known as the “Brenta Riviera”. 

A beautifully decorated hallway in Villa Pisani

The front entrance to Villa Pisani

The villas were designed to impress.  Their ornate trimmings, art filled halls, grand ballrooms, and sweeping gardens played host to Doges, Popes, Kings, Emperors, artists and wealthy merchants during the height of the Venetian Empire.   After the fall of Venice, in 1797, with the arrival of Napoleon, many of the villas changed hands, often due to the financial problems of the owners. 

Today some villas are in disrepair (imagine the costs of upkeep!), some are abandoned, some have been converted into museums, restaurants or hotels. Others are privately owned. A few of the most spectacular ones are open to the public.

The villas can easily be visited by car, but a more elegant (though much slower) way to tour the villas is to arrive by burchiello – a modern version of the historic boats that once moved people and goods along the canal. That is exactly what a group of friends and I did recently.  The boat trip from Padua to Venice took about 9 hours, with stops at 3 villas along the way.  The visits included a guide who shared the history of each villa, details about the art and architecture, and some good 16th – 18th century gossip about villa life.

The first villa on the itinerary was Villa Pisani.  Built to celebrate the election of Alvise Pisani as the 114th Doge of Venice, the villa is the crown jewel of the Brenta Riviera.  The Pisani family owned the villa until it was sold to Napoleon in 1808.  

The villa is remarkable in many ways.  First, its size.  The place is massive!  The 144 rooms are said to represent the number of Venetian Doges up to Pisani.  One room is filled with wall mounted sculptures of the head of each doge.  Look carefully on the wall to the right to find the likeness of Alvise Pisani.   

The Pisani’s must have loved to entertain, because their ballroom is nothing short of spectacular.  The room shimmers with gold trimmings.  High above is an ornate balcony which rings the room – a place for the musicians to play.  And the ceiling! The ceiling fresco is by Tiepolo and it is a marvel. The ballroom is the truly the elegant heart of the villa. Standing here you can almost hear the music playing and can imagine the finely clothed Venetians enjoy a luxurious party.

The visit to the villa includes the piano nobile where a series of rooms are filled with history.  There is the bedroom where King Vittorio Emanuele II slept (left below).  Next door, the room of his second wife, the Contessa di Mirafiori, with a reproduction of one of her dresses (right).

The room dedicated to music and the elegant sala di pranzo (dining room) face out onto the immaculate grounds and the stable (shown below at the end of the reflecting pool and looking very much like another villa).

Napoleon only spent one night here, but he left the villa in the hands of his stepson, Eugene de Beauharnais, Viceroy of Italy.  The Viceroy lived there with his wife, adding fireplaces for heating (most of the Brenta Villas were not heated as they were intended to be summer homes), and creating a chapel, a study and a games room.  The study is where a later historic meeting between Mussolini and Hitler took place prior to World War II.

A peak at the grounds outside the villa. I’ll need a return visit to explore the gardens!

The grounds are equally impressive.  The 30 acres contain a large reflecting pool, stables, an orangery, ice house, and a labyrinth.

Is it true that Napoleon got lost in the labyrinth?  It is said that he did but, to use the Italian phrase, chissà (who knows)?  

The only drawback to our guided visit is that we did not have any time in the gardens.  I will need to go back and wander those beautiful spaces.

Today the Villa and surrounding park is a National Museum.  

The Villa is open from 31 March to 30 September this year, 9 am – 8pm (last admission 1 hour before closing), closed on Mondays.  The labyrinth is currently closed for restoration.

 Coming soon – Part 3, Villa Widmann

 Website: villapisani.beniculturali.it

Email: info@museovillapisani.it

Cost €12 villa + park, €6 park only

Bentornato Giugno (Welcome Back June)

Is there a better place to people watch on a June morning than a piazza in Tuscany?

The month of June has arrived, bringing ideal weather to Lucca. Blue skies are dotted with wispy clouds, the temperature is unusually mild, and there is just a hint of breeze.   An occasional rain helps keep things cool. Perfetto!

 Along with the lovely weather, the beginning of June also brings the start of the busy summer season.  The piazze (that’s plural for piazza, the squares that make Italian cities so enjoyable in summer) are filled with big umbrellas, outdoor tables, bustling waiters, lively visitors and locals, and street musicians.   This morning, as I sipped a cappuccino in Piazza San Michele,  the gentle, just-right-volume sound of Beatles music drifted in from under the nearby loggia.  Mornings like this feel cinematic, with me starring in my very own set-in-Italy film, complete with soundtrack.  

Piazza del Giglio, Lucca

 Another piazza, Piazza del Giglio, hosted a ceramic market last weekend.  The booths were filled with all types of ceramic goods.   Many featured items that were both beautiful and well suited to daily use – coffee and tea cups, bowls, pitchers, oil carafes, teapots.  The designs and colors were eye-catching.

The booth that I found most enchanting was full of ceramic buttons, earrings, and small ornaments.  The buttons were all sizes, from tiny to extra-large, and decorated with hand painted designs.  It was impossible to look at them and not smile.  There were flowers, hearts, birds, houses and fish made into bottoni (buttons) and orecchini (earrings). 

Ceramic art pieces and jewelry were also a feature of the market.  From whimsical dogs and cats to pretty pins and earrings to stunning sculptural pieces there was something to please everyone.

The first weekend end of June also saw the start of the Lucca Summer Festival (LSF 24). 

The season-long music festival is the big event of summer, drawing large crowds and big acts to town.  A huge stage is constructed on the green space just outside the walls. This is there where the largest concerts will take place. 

Booths with box seats are placed along the walls high above the stage.   Eric Clapton, on June 2nd, was the first concert on the big stage.  Fortunately an afternoon thunderstorm ended in time so that it did not impact the concert.

Ed Sheeran will follow with two concerts next week.   

People without tickets often catch the music from the street just inside the walls, nearest to the stage. Years ago I heard the Rolling Stones from that spot, along with about 1,000 other ticket-less persons.

 Smaller concerts will take place in Piazza Napoleone.  A few lucky persons will be able to catch those concerts from their terraces a short distance from the piazza. 

The list of performers is varied with something to appeal to everyone.   All this and it is just the first weekend of June!  It is going to be a busy summer in Lucca.

Ceramic flowers - no watering required!

A Spring Weekend in Lucca

It seems as if we waited a long time for spring to arrive this year.  Cold and rainy weather lasted well into May.  But finally, on the last weekend in May, spring finally showed up.  And it is glorious!  

The temperatures are mild, the breezes gentle, and the skies are filled with cotton ball clouds with only the smallest hint of rain. The trees are green, the scent of Jasmine fills the air, and pretty flower boxes fill balconies. Is there a better place to spend spring than in Tuscany? 

 The final days of May also brought two very enjoyable festivals to Lucca. 

The first is the Lucca Medievale Festival.   The event took place on the mura storiche (historic walls) where a medieval encampment sprang up along one of the large green bulwarks that jut out from the walls.  

Throughout the camp craftsmen and women, all in costume, demonstrated medieval crafts.  There were woodturners, blacksmiths, and chainmail makers.

Weavers and clothmakers worked alongside pottery artisans and clog makers. Rough beeswax candles were on display as were some ancient (and quite scary) medical instruments.  A stone carver worked with small tools to create delicate designs.

Musicians played antique instruments; there was no shortage of medieval weapons. Throughout the weekend-long festival were exhibitions of historic dances, arts, crossbow competitions, and music. Lucca is in so many ways still a medieval town and the festival really brings that era to life. It’s an annual event - now is the time to make plans to visit Lucca next spring!

 The second event to enliven the city in late May was the French Market.  It is always exciting when this market comes to town. It is only fitting that the market fills Piazza Napoleone, Lucca’s largest piazza.  The large open piazza was created during the time when Napoleon’s sister, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, was the Principessa of Lucca.  Her impact on Lucca is felt to this day. I think she would approve of hosting a French market in front of her palace!

 The market featured typical French products – soaps, perfumes, and table linens as well as French foods.   French breads were baked on site. French pastries and French cheeses filled the booths.  And the quiches! Quiche Lorraine, goat cheese and tomato, veggie and even salmon quiches warm from the oven were ready to take home for a tasty French themed lunch. 

Whenever the French market comes to Lucca, I line up to buy some bastoncini.  These breads – much thicker than a breadstick but thinner than a small baguette – are a bit of an addiction for me.  Crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, they are studded with olives, walnuts, pancetta, or cheese.   Paired with a market quiche and a salad they transport me right back to Provence. 

 The spring days in Lucca are meant to be enjoyed - a wonderful pause between the cold, rainy season and the advent of hot weather and busy summer activities. Welcome spring!