High Tea, Italian Style

The Marriott Grand Universe Hotel, Lucca

Lucca is a small town.  Unlike Florence or Rome it does not have a lot of high-end, super fancy hotels. There is however the Grand Universe, a Marriott branded hotel which was remodeled a few years ago from a classic though dated local hotel to a modern, upscale destination spot.  The roof top Champagne bar has amazing views and drink prices that may make you think you are in Rome.   It is a treat, but not my usual hangout.

What I did not know about the hotel is that they serve a lovely, and very reasonably priced, English-style afternoon tea.  Who knew !  Luckily, a friend of mine did and invited me to tea on a rainy early winter afternoon. Fancy teas are one of my favorite special occasion things to do, a posh break from everyday life.  There is a fabulous tearoom back in New Mexico, a must when I am there at Christmas time.  I’ve enjoyed tea on many travels over the years – England (of course), Paris, Budapest.   I have loved the high teas served on Viking Ocean cruises.  How is it that I had no idea about the elegant high tea served right here in Lucca?  A terrible miss on my part!

Without a doubt the Grand Universe serves the most bountiful tea I’ve ever been served.  More like a 4 (or 5) course meal.  Not that I am complaining!  Now, if you are one of those people that really do not like reading about food, or seeing photos of food, I recommend skipping the rest of this post because from here on out it is all about the food.

The tea service began with the opportunity to select from a variety of teas.  Darjeeling was my choice, loose tea leaves steeped in individual pots with slices of lemon or milk alongside.  While we waited for the tea to steep, the food began to arrive.   A classic 3 tier tray came first.  On top, savories.  There were 5 types of small tea sandwiches.  Some classic – triangles of cucumber with a creamy cheese and one with ham and mustard. 

There was a thinly sliced salmon on whole grain bread, one with bacon on a mini whole grain croissant, and an open faced avocado sandwich on a crispy sesame bread.  Luckily these were small – but they could have been a lunch all by themselves.  The next tier held some small pastries and the bottom tier was desserts.

On a return visit in December with a group of 4, platters took the place of the tiered serving dish and the selections were a bit different, but equally delicious.

Scones are a must a team so of course there were scones. They were served with cream and a house-made strawberry jam.  Wonderful!

Next were a variety of sweets – bite sized tarts (lemon, berry, cream-filled, orange) and larger individual apple tarts.   

Sounds like a full tea, right ? Not quite.  The chef appeared with a plate full of house made shortbread. Not one or two pieces, more like a dozen and way too many to eat after an already abundant tea.   Luckily the server offered to-go boxes and these perfect buttery cookies were tasty the next day alongside some coffee. 

On my second visit I told the chef how much I had enjoyed his shortbread and he graciously shared a copy of the recipe. I hope mine turn out half as good! 

And just when we thought we were finished, tea concluded with a final surprise - slices of a strawberry cream cake.

No way could we finish all the food served - but the leftovers meant a nice home tea the next day.

I was glad my friend warned me to skip lunch and arrive hungry!  On my return visit I gave my group of friends the same advice.  Each time we were glad to have those to-go boxes. 

Whether as an escape from an otherwise dreary November day, to celebrate a special occasion, or as part of a holiday celebration, tea at the Grand Universe is a treat.  And at €25 per person it is also an affordable luxury.

The Italian Holiday Calendar

This Babbo Natale, much like Santa Claus, greets people as the enter the Caffè Santa Zita in Lucca

The holiday calendar in Italy is a little different than the one found in the United States. In the US, the holiday season begins in late November with Thanksgiving and then moves through a multicultural series of celebrations – most years Hanukkah comes first, then Winter Solstice, next is Christmas, followed by Kwanzaa, and ending with New Year’s Day.  We may sing about the 12 days of Christmas, but by December 26th many Americans are back to work with only a day off coming for the New Year. The American holidays have a blend of religious, cultural, and family significance and tradition. Individuals may celebrate none of the holidays, only one, or any combination. Thanksgiving and New Year’s are US public holidays.  Hanukkah, Winter Solstice, and Kwanzaa are not. But what about Christmas? It would make sense that, as a religious celebration, it would not be a public holiday in the US and yet it is – well, sort of. The required separation of the religious and civic holidays was maintained by the 1870 law that created a federal holiday on December 25th. It is in fact, by US law, not exactly a Christmas holiday at all but rather the “December 25th holiday”. No such legal gymnastics are required in Italy!

Piazza Napoleone, Lucca was one of the first places to find holiday decorations this year

Lucca’s largest Christmas tree, in piazza San Michele, arrived in late November

Here in Italy there is no Thanksgiving to mark the start of the holiday calendar.  Another difference is that there seems to be much less multiculturalism in how the holidays are celebrated, at least in the smaller towns.  In Lucca, I have not seen Hanukkah or Kwanzaa celebrations, and those days are not considered public holidays, though there are certainly families who celebrate them.  It may be different in the bigger cities, but here the big holiday celebrations are all about Christmas.

The official start of the season is December 8th, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.  In Italy it is both a religious and a public holiday, a duality that is not at all unusual here.  Traditionally, that day is when the Christmas tree goes up and the Presepe (nativity scene) appears. But much like in the US, the season unofficially begins a bit earlier.   

First to appear are the decorated shop windows..  We may not have a big Macy’s display window here in Lucca, but the small shop windows are wonderfully decked out.  Walking through town to see the Christmas windows is one of my favorite holiday activities.

By the 4th week of November Lucca’s streets are hung with tiny white lights and overhead decorations. Larger holiday installations appear throughout the city and displays of stars, snowflakes, or other symbols of the season are projected onto the sides of the city’s medieval buildings. 

Other holiday events in late November / early December in Lucca include the opening of a temporary ice-skating rink, the start of the Christmas market in Piazza Napoleone (this year’s market features French products), and the lighting of the big Christmas tree in Piazza San Michele.

A big crowd turned out for the tree lighting ceremony

Throughout December the seasonal magic continues with concerts and street music, processions, Presepe, special markets, children’s activities including the Casa di Babbo Natale (Father Christmas’s house), and all the lights and sparkle that one little Italian Medieval town can muster.   Add in the various social events with friends and the whole month will be filled with activities. We’ll rest in January!  

It all comes to an end on January 5th and 6th with the celebration of La Befana, the Christmas witch.  On the evening of the 5th, Befana (perhaps several of them) will wander the historic center of Lucca.  On the 6th, Befana arrives for the children in Piazza San Francesco. Descending from a roof top (with the help of a crane and the fire department), she brings stockings full of candy to the children.  It is always fun to watch her arrival, surrounded by some very excited children. My own Befana keeps watch in my apartment throughout the season.

It’s December – let the holiday magic begin wherever and however you choose to celebrate the season.  

Late November in Lucca

It’s hard to believe that November is nearly over, but a blast of very cold air this past week served as a reminder that winter is on its way.  After such a mild October and early November, many of us were scrambling to dig out our sweaters, hats, warm scarves, and gloves.  No complaints though – the colder temps are appropriate for late November and help to set the mood for the upcoming holidays.

Soon these fall gourds will be replaced with Christmas decor

 Here in Italy the 4th Thursday of November is just another workday.  But most of the Americans, residents and visitors alike, plan some type of celebration to mark Thanksgiving. Though the celebrations will have an Italian twist.  After all, how many of us here have ovens big enough to roast a turkey?  Or dining rooms that will hold a large group for a formal dinner?   Certainly not me with my miniscule kitchen, small fridge, and my tiny oven that is just barely more than the Easy Bake I had as a kid.  Still, we will gather with friends in small groups in homes or larger groups in restaurants to give thanks.  And we will catch up with other friends throughout the week.  In a new twist for me, this year I will share a fully catered meal with a few friends. It will seem strange to not be making my mother’s turkey dressing or preparing dishes to take to a big potluck dinner.  But my “usual” Lucca Thanksgiving group has scattered, some to new cities, some back to the US, some to travel adventures. And so it is time for something new.   My one nod to my usual American tradition will be baking my sister Patty’s Apple-Cranberry pie.  Luckily the local fruit and vegetable market managed to get some fresh cranberries just in time this year!

And of course there are lots of reasons to be thankful. My family, friends who come to visit (some of whom are wise enough to visit in November and December), some friends living here who’ve faced health issues this year but are now on the mend, the everyday joys of being in Italy, the gift of travel this past year, Lucca’s always vibrant culture, and the many blog readers who have reached out this year, come to visit, or written the emails that make my day. I appreciate you all!

One great thing about late November in Lucca is the special events that take place. The most unusual was a flash mob organized for the filming of a TV ad for next year’s Sanremo Music Festival.  The musicians were from the Boccherini Institute, a local music academy.  The singers were lovely as they added their voices to the orchestra playing a well-known song, Piazza Grande, made famous by Lucio Dalla and a past winner of the Sanremo competition.  (video on Instagram at two_parts_italy).  

Another event, Il Desco, took place this past weekend.  An annual celebration of foods from the Garfagnana, it is always a fun event.  The stalls are great places to buy the season’s new extra virgin olive oil, freshly ground chestnut flour, dried beans, and grains.  Bring a big shopping bag, because there are also artisanal breads, local honey, many different cheeses, and lots of meat products (think salami, guanciale, sausages, lardo).  Packaged gift trays too!

 The longest line at Il Desco was the one I look forward to the most – the line to order necci  – those warm and fragrant chestnut crepes filled with a variety of fillings (make mine fresh ricotta and honey please). 

Definitely worth the wait!

 Late November also brings the start of the Christmas season in Italy. With no Thanksgiving to delay its start, Christmas begins to sneak in just after Halloween. Over the past week we’ve watched as lights and decorations were hung high above the streets in the historic center of town and as big, bright, and colorful installations were placed in the piazzas. There were some fabulous holiday shop windows unveiled too and the start of the Christmas Market.  (More photos of Christmas in Lucca next week)

The weekend’s big event was the lighting of the huge Christmas tree in Piazza San Michele.  Quite a big crowd turned out, despite the chilly weather, for a glimpse of the tree lighting. There is a short video clip posted on Instagram (two_parts_italy).  A nice glass of red wine in a cozy bar did just the trick to warm us up afterwards.

A crowd gathered to watch the ceremonial lighting of the Christmas tree

I wish you all I wonderful Thanksgiving no matter where you may find yourself this week. 

Buona Festa di Ringraziamento!

Lucca in Black and White

When I think of Lucca, I see color. Blue skies, sunsets that glow in orange and red, green trees lining the historic city walls, balconies full of colorful flowers.

There are wisteria blooms in spring, bright orange drinks in a piazza during summer, and gourds in all shades in fall. In the market, the color comes from red peppers, purple artichokes, bright green spring agretti, and orange clementines. There are red brick medieval buildings, ochre colored homes, and painted doors. Now, in October, the leaves will soon be changing and we will crunch through drying leaves of yellow and gold as we walk.

As much as I love all of Lucca’s colors, the city has a moody side as well. When the skies darken, the winds blow, and a chill seeps through the thick walls of the buildings it is a different city altogether.

I’ve been trying to capture this other side of Lucca in photographs. To do so, I have been experimenting lately with black and white photos.

A black and white picture highlights shadows and brings a focus on details that can be missed when there is the “distraction” of color.

They can be one way to show the side of Lucca that is a bit more dramatic, unpredictable, petulant even.

This week, I bring you Lucca in black and white.

Museo Nazionale del Bargello

One of many statues in the courtyard of the Bargello, this one, from 1579 by Domenico Poggini, is particularly lovely

I could spend the next 20 years in Florence and still not have studied all the art that can be found there.  There is so much to experience - in public buildings, palaces, churches, and museums - that it can be overwhelming, especially if trying to see as much as possible on a short visit. How fortunate it is to spend most of the year just an hour or so away in Lucca, making it easy to return over time, taking in a new museum, seeing just a few artistic highlights, or returning to a favorite place.

One place that I have returned to over the years is the Museo Nazionale del Bargello.  There are many things to love about the Bargello; it is one of my favorite museums anywhere in the world.

First, the history.  Constructed in the 13th century as Florence’s first public building, it began its existence as a place to protect the rights of the people.  Over its long history it has served many purposes and experienced many periods of destruction and rebuilding. After its noble beginning, the palazzo was later used as a justice hall and later a prison.  Political prisoners were tried, jailed, and executed here up until the late 1700’s when the death penalty was banned. Perhaps the most famous political convict was Dante. He received a death sentence here in the year 1302; luckily he had fled Florence and the sentence was never carried out. Instead, he was exiled from Florence.   

The courtyard, looking up to the loggia

Since 1865 the palazzo has served as a museum, housing treasures created by some of Italy’s most famous artists.  Even before viewing the art, the palazzo is magnificent for its architecture.  Standing in the courtyard, with it’s central well, coats of arms, and grand staircase, and looking up toward the first-floor loggia, is a wonder.  Many of the pieces here are recreations of works that had been destroyed during the years when the Bargello served as a prison. 

Ammannati’s Juno Fountain, 1555. (Juno and the peacocks are copies)

Detail, courtyard ceiling

Other pieces were relocated here from various buildings in Florence, including the Juno fountain which was originally meant for the Palazzo Vecchio. Over time it was deconstructed and the 8 statues scattered to different locations. Now, with all the figures reunited, it is a perfect fit in the Bargello’s grand courtyard. 

The courtyard is a peaceful spot to sit and enjoy the start of a visit to this wonderful and generally uncrowded museum. Informational signs, in English, provide an overview of the buildings history, a good beginning to any visit.

The floors above the courtyard hold an abundance of treasures.  I think of the Bargello as primarily a sculpture museum, for it is the sculpture that pulls me back time and again.  The sculptures include a who’s who list of Italy’s most famous artists – Bernini, Donatello, Cellini, Michaelangelo, Verrocchio, Giambologna. 

Bronze Birds by Giambologna, c. 1570

Many of the most famous works can be found in the Donatello Room, originally the palazzo’s grand hall, including both a bronze and a marble David by Donatello. While this room showcases several works by Donatello, others are also represented including the competition pieces by Brunelleschi and Ghiberti for the Baptistery doors. The Donatello room is newly refurnished, with this David right in the center.

A bronze David by Donatello, c.1440 (the marble St. George in the background is also by Donatello)

There is much more to see at the Bargello in addition to sculpture.  There are Della Robbia glazed ceramics, paintings, decorative arts, ivories and paintings. 

A small chapel, with frescoes by Giotto, was where prisoners would be given last rites prior to their execution. Today, it houses religious artifacts including an intricate carved choir lectern.

Il Pescatore (The Fisher Boy), Vincenzo Gemito 1877

The photos here are just a hint of what can be found in the Bargello.  So many visitors to Florence head to the Accademia to see the David and the Uffizi for the famous paintings, and both are wonderful.  But to miss the Bargello is a shame. 

The art there can be viewed close up – but don’t be like the tourists I saw reach beyond the rope to touch a marble statue!  The guard was right on that and after she scolded them she looked at me, shook her head, and said “every day there is at least one like that”.  I would hate to see all these wonderful works of art get hidden behind glass enclosures because of visitors who don’t keep their hands to themselves. 

As they are displayed today, it is a joy to be able to walk around each piece, admiring the different angles and perspectives. I am headed back to Florence for a week’s stay at the end of October with a friend who is a first time visitor.  You can bet the Bargello is one of the places we will go.

The Dancing Cherub, a more playful Donatello